One can never overstate how easier things can be with quality tools, this sentiment also applies to shoe care and the brushes we use. Here is a comprehensive overview of various shoe brushes available and their respective uses as well as examples of good alternatives.
Horsehair brush: Medium hard all-round brush
When people think of shoe brushes, this is usually what comes to mind similar to shoe cream (see our big shoe care guide here), this all-purpose tool cannot be done without. Used to remove dirt from regular leather and suede shoes alike while brushing up shoe cream to remove excess and build shine, its horse bristles come from both mane and tail (where tail hair may have slightly higher quality), making for stiff but compliant yet dense brushes with better function overall, avoid those using synthetic bristles which are more difficult to control as these cannot be managed easily by humans.
It can often be debated whether different brushes are necessary for different shades of shoe polish and wax. As a guideline, one brush should be designated specifically for dark colors (black and dark brown) while another one for lighter ones (other colors), this will prevent black-colored brushes from coloring off lighter shoes accidentally when applied over them with thick fine layers, just one brush would do just as well, provided you are mindful of laying on thin fine layers correctly otherwise a darker tinge might appear on lighter ones when brushing away dust or dirt with cream application. If used specifically as an anti-dirt removal brush when coming home it would also benefit greatly by having its own specific function so dust does not mix into cream application process when applied over cream application process, which would prevent dust accumulation when applying cream application process.
Horsehair Application Brush for Cream Application
An application brush can be used to apply shoe cream (not wax polish, for this a polish cloth is much better), either between the sole and upper leather or all over as desired. I personally prefer using both methods for smooth leather, using an application brush only when working with embossed grain leather is preferable.
Dried cream causes brushes to stiffen when being used, but simply rubbing against an apron or cleaning cloth softens them again, or when necessary using dishwashing liquid in your sink for thorough cleaning it’s an easy fix.
Goat or Yak Hair Brush Soft for Finishing
My go-to brush for finishing is a soft goat (or yak hair, more exotic but even more costly), I own many varieties and use them often. Their primary function is brushing up shine after using wax polish as more coarse horse hair brushes tend to leave small scratches in its shiny finish, one brush suffices here since waxing techniques properly applied will produce thin, hard layers which limit how much of its colours rub off onto other shoes.
Soft goat hair brushes can also be great for quickly brushing away dirt from shoes when you return home, especially if they feature a high shine finish. Just be sure to use one separate from that used for polishing purposes.
Nylon Cloth for Final Finish and Restoration of Gloss
Even with the best goat hair brush for finishing, a nylon stocking provides that last bit of shine you need for optimal results. Technically not technically speaking but works just fine in this instance think ordinary women’s pantyhose short knee highs semi shine 60 den (relatively thick). Simply wrap over your hand and rub fast. A nylon cloth can also help restore shine quickly before wearing shoes again, and in case any marks occur while using them you can also rub it over smaller marks more easily when out on the field or off smaller marks that occur during use.
Brush with pig bristles or wild boar bristles – hard brush to work in cream
Not a must, but appreciated by some. Primarily used to effectively work shoe cream into leather shoes and coats more efficiently, it’s harder bristles help build heat faster. Also suitable for embossed grain leather for applying cream more efficiently, some even use it on suede and nubuck surfaces.
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Suede Brush for Lifting Suede Fibers
Both horsehair brushes and wild boar bristle brushes can be used to clean suede shoes effectively, however, when it comes to lifting its fibers something which may need doing periodically in order to rid them of dirt and breathe new life back into them then a special suede brush may be better. Here there are various variations, but I often recommend brushes with brass bristles in the center and stiff pig or synthetic bristles at either end, making them gentler than pure brass brushes. No matter their purpose, suede brushes must be used with caution and soft, fine movements to work up the suede fibers, after each use of shoes a horsehair brush works well when surface dirt needs to be cleared away, for after washing use a suede brush becomes even more essential.
Suede – clean stains on suede and nubuck
Suede Cleaning Solutions provide effective solutions for stain removal on suede and nubuck materials.
For obvious stains on suede, suede eraser can often be an ideal way to quickly and efficiently remove them. Most commonly made out of gritty material that breaks apart when worked over, loose particles then can be removed with regular shoe brush. Another more effective and gentler variant can even help take out stubborn stains more effectively than this method alone.
Also learn more tips about Shoe Care.