Shell cordovan is an immensely popular material due to its special characteristics and durability. However, there may be certain disadvantages of cordovan that some buyers might be unaware of, being aware of them can help inform your buying decisions when considering cordovan shoes as an investment option.
Cordovan shoes have many positive attributes that are widely acknowledged, including its shine, long lifespan, ability to create rolled creases (if one so wishes) and develops a rich patina over time. Unfortunately, information regarding its negative attributes is more difficult to come by, Shoegazing can help fill that void, particularly if this is your first pair of cordovan shoes as different individuals may experience them differently). Before purchasing your pair(s), take time to read this page in its entirety so you have an informed opinion before ordering them (it could help reading through will ensure all sides can experience them).
Cordovan leather can be quite thick and rigid, not offering as much flexibility and pliability as most calf leathers used for quality shoes. Some people may enjoy its robust nature while others have difficulty breaking in corodovan shoes to get them comfortable due to this factor depending on how sensitive their feet may be.
Cordovan leather is dense and doesn’t breathe easily, therefore it absorbs less moisture than traditional leather does particularly if worn unlined, this can become apparent. Confoundingly, unlined cordovan loafers have become quite a fashionable trend over recent years, yet some buyers cannot wear them during hotter temperatures. If your feet perspire excessively and easily heat up during summer months, bear this in mind when purchasing cordovan shoes to wear during this season. Not only can cordovan shoes become uncomfortable, I have also heard stories about insoles cracking more rapidly due to poor breathability and their perspiration breaking down the leather of their insoles quickly though other parts of their shoe might.
As mentioned previously, cordovan can vary considerably depending on where and from whom you purchase the shoes, as well as which tannery it comes. To keep things straightforward, here I will focus on one major producer, Horween. Horween produces natural cordovan which is more sensitive to water damage and easily becomes stained or discolored over time some brands produce shoes using this natural cordovan while some don’t.
Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones and Carmina are some of the many major shoe brands who do not treat their Horween Shell Cordovan hides to make it more resilient against moisture and dirt what is their method for doing so? Well, these shoes feature a coating made up of shellac. Since each brand offers slightly varying treatments for their cordovan shoes, its experience can differ significantly based on who manufactured them. Coatings and shellacs serve a universal purpose, however, their effect may differ depending on who uses it or not. Cordovan coated shoes tend to get water stains and other marks more quickly than natural shell, though not to the same degree, and can often be restored back into good condition more easily after exposure to rain or other moisture sources. But cordovan may not be your ideal choice if you don’t wish to treat your shoes after every raindrop falls.